|
Sat, Jan 14th
Last night met my roomate from Lake Tahoe, Steve Smith, we hung out watching and listening to some fabulous live jazz down at the harbour and soaked up the sounds and general friendliness of everyone and then had a bite to eat in a noisy bar, not the best place to get acquainted but the band was on a break when we sat down. Steve is from Lake Tahoe, California and is a very experienced rider and a residential house contractor. While some may want the privacy of their own room at the end of a days ride I prefer to share the experience. We will split up when spare sleeping facilities are available to give each other a break.
This morning at breakfast I met Debbie and Harrison Christian who have been on nearly all of GlobeRiders tours and are very good friends with Helge. They hail from Washington State. After breakfast I was wondering around and met Dean Tanji from Orange County so we had a chat and got acquainted.
We all have a common interest which is staying safe and riding motorcycles in adventurous circumstances. Our common interests after that are to be decided but I am hopeful for a positive outcome especially with Helge’s leadership and easy good humour.
Whatever happens on this journey I am embracing the adventure and feel happy and complete. It is so enervating to be able to take on a challenge like this with its risks and complexities and feel like it is eminently doable despite the unknowns.
Sun, Jan 15th
More touring around and do not know when I will be back. Went to a so so museum and then did some shopping- health bars, various bits and pieces etc.; the highlight was the botanical gardens around the back of Table Mountain. It is the kind of serene place to go and spend a whole day not just an hour or two. Established in 1902 with a long history before that, it is a thousand acre nature preserve of which 80 acres is this fabulous walking space on a hillside containing 4500 Southern African plant and tree species; a truly special place.
I have now met the ‘gang’ all suffering from various forms of jet lag. We met for several hours this afternoon to go over GPS and satellite communication systems and listen to Helge as he prepares us for what is ahead. We have two very nice locals who will be accompanying us (Andy and Harry). Tomorrow we meet in full riding gear to go and pick up our bikes in the docklands and prepare for departure tuesday.
No matter what, this is the kind of trip that ultimately you do on your own, just like the trip of life. I will have 10 mates to rely on as they will rely on me but ultimately I am responsible for my own destiny.
There is a glitch in out travel plans! We were due to pick up our bikes from the container port today (Monday) to prepare for departure tomorrow. Unfortunately, two things coincided for a double negative. Our bikes were container shipped from Seattle October 21st to provide for a big built in buffer. For some reason time was lost with an unexpected stoppage in Singapore. Then, on a several week late arrival and with paperwork needing to be checked and re-checked it was discovered that there was a mixup between World Cargo and the shipping agent in Seattle and the customs officials here- ONE lousy piece of paper missing! Consequently, with this happening over a weekend and the Martin Luther King Day holiday this Monday we have a double whammy on our hands.
Mon/Tue, Jan 16th/17th
Instead of being well on our way, we are holed up in Cape Town, not exactly a bad place to be.
The highlight of Monday apart from numerous meetings about all stuff motorcycle related, was our ‘welcome dinner’. Helge always finds a nice private dining room nearby our hotel for a get acquainted celebration. This was no exception. Our lovely hotel near the harbour is very well located and the restaurant right on the water mirrored that as well.
After suitable beer and wine to loosen people up Helge asked for a person by person intro along with trip expectations and the like. What an introduction! We were all impressed at the quality of the commentary. I felt humbled to be in such honest and forthright company.
We have a broad collection of ages and backgrounds which I will not bore you with suffice to say we have two in their 40’s, two in their 50’s, one in their 60’s (me) and three in their 70’s plus Helge and Debbie Christian as the sole moderating female! It is a very experienced, proficient team and I think speaking early, that it will jell well together- not a big ego in the group.
Tuesday was a bit gloomy and disappointing due to the bike hold up. Harry got us going with a mini bus tour to Signal Hill for sight seeing and a photo op followed by a driving tour to the other side of town for lunch; a wonderful day all around and another opportunity to enjoy each other’s company, thanks Harry and Andy!
Day 04, Wed, Jan 18th (Cape Town to Springbok, 660 km)
Finally we get the ok on the paperwork and in a state of high excitement mini bus out to the docklands to find our container. In remarkably short order it is craned into place and unloaded. Then began the work for everyone to get their bikes organized and this took a good couple of hours.
We left at about noon for the 660 km route to Springbok. Unfortunately we had to by pass our first destination on the coast in Lamberts Bay and take the direct route missing the more scenic coast road. Everyone was disappointed to miss the planned barbecue on the beach but the delay in getting the bikes meant that there was no other choice.
It was a long journey for the first day and we did not arrive until after 6 pm. In places it was very hot, mid 30’s on average and I saw 42.5 on my gauge a few times. When it went down to 30 I felt like the air con was on! It actually was not all that bad as long as you keep moving and stand up on your pegs to let the air get inside your gear once in awhile; I also have a camelpak which is a 1.5 litre knapsack that I can suck on to keep hydrated.
The terrain was mixed, dry coastal flatlands with limited cattle and sheep grazing at the outset becoming rolling hills with a few green spots and higher temperatures at elevation. We saw some fruit orchards and vegetation before the last bit of very rocky even brilliant and hilly landscapes.
This place can be very windy. We were buffeted by severe cross winds maybe gusts to 30-40 knots for the first third making driving a bit of a challenge. Thereafter it subsided.
After a couple of quick gas stops we arrived in Springbok at about 6 pm to be welcomed by a bottle of S. Africa’s finest in our rooms. The Kleinplasie Guesthouse is so quaint and pleasant that I jokingly said to Helge we should be staying another night. Shower and dinner to follow.
Day 5, Thur, Jan 19th (Springbok to Canyon Village Lodge, 318 km)
Tough day with a relatively short ride of 318 klics; we left the Kleinplasie Guesthouse in Springbok in good time to get a head start on the heat and cross the Namibian border. The crossing was a breeze and by far the easiest we will see. We all stopped at the Wimpys to fuel up, grab a drink and cool off in the air con before hitting the desert and it is their summer here; the long straight tarred road was easy until the left turn at the halfway point to our next destination. This is where we hit gravel and sand. The first third was fine at 80 klics/ hour, the second bit got worse and by the time we all arrived 100 km later everyone was exhausted. It is like getting your sea legs, it takes a day or two but even so it was pretty challenging stuff.
The destination in the middle of nowhere is worth the price of admission. Canyon Village Lodge near the Fish River Canyon is like an oasis in a desert, no, it is exactly an oasis in the desert. It is a collection of lovely little stone cabins surrounding the main lodge in a valley of prehistoric rock out croppings, many of them huge and majestic.
We all hung around the pool, drank tons of liquids to rehydrate and had a delicious dinner outside under a cool evening environment. After Helge’s daily meeting we all contemplated tomorrow before turning in early.
Day 06, Fri Jan 20th (Canyon Lodge/ Fish River Canyon only, 117 km)
This was an amazing, relatively easy 75 km journey to the world famous Fish River Canyon. Namibia is mostly desert, a vast underwater sea from eons ago and at some places you could almost be on the moon. Smack dab in the middle of nowhere is the second biggest ancient canyon in the world next to the Grand Canyon in Colorado; a small group of us arrived early and got some terrific shots of the early morning shadows. We had the place almost to ourselves; what a great way to start the day!
After reversing back via another gem of a place called the Canyon Road House for lunch we spent the afternoon preparing for and contemplating tomorrow.
We are all a bit nervous, especially me. There are tortoises and there are hares. I am definitely a tortoise. It would be better if we could face this adventure a bit later in the trip. At least our bikes and clothing are suitably dusty and dirty so we at least ‘look’ like we have been off roading. We are heading to a place called Sossusvlei (Sous-sousveli) which is 573 km away with nearly all gravel and sand roads. It is apparently a drop dead gorgeous place where the world’s highest and best looking sand dunes take on a very special hue as the sun rises. We will be having breakfast right in the dunes. Problem is, getting there first.
I could go the long way round and meet further up the line as two people will be doing but it would mean missing what Helge says is one of the world’s most spectacular places and settings to visit; he is one to know.
I emailed my ‘coach from afar’ Mike McNulty who was on last year’s trip and rides with similar caution as me. His recommendation and the success I had today means that I will be taking this road tomorrow with a bit of trepidation, a good night’s sleep and a 5 am departure before it gets too hot. Still, 573 km is one helluva long way on dirt and gravel. It is at least 10-12 hours of hard riding. And one might reasonably ask, exactly what kind of surface are we contemplating?
With a short road day today I also have time to rest up and prepare. A key thing is tire pressure - on gravel surfaces and varying terrain it is best to lower your pressure.
Day 07, Sat, Jan 21 (Canyon Lodge to Sossusvlei, 573 km)
This was a ball buster day. Aaron (Beckord) and I left, clutches out, at 5:38 am likely several hours before the rest of the crew. It was still dark but cool (18.5) and the candle power on our bikes lit up the roads very well. At this early time we saw Giraffes, Ostrich, Kudus and Springbok, not in great numbers but they were there in this hot, dry, arid desert. We finished almost exactly 10 hours later with the temperature at 39.5: ie. hot!
The distance was 574.9 km with all but approx. 100 km gravel and sand roads. They are graded (occasionally) and pretty darn straight for the most part. The problem occurs where there is loose build up and your front wheel kind of skiis through it, a bit unerving at times but you try and get used to it because there is no choice. It is also a lot of hard work so patience, focus, lots and lots of hydration and numerous stops to collect your thoughts and relax a bit is mandatory.
Aaron is from Oregon, 48 and a real estate investor in housing and strip malls in the Pacific Northwest. He is a self taught, self managed one man show and, I can tell, very good at what he does. He has 600 hours as a private pilot, owns an airplane and loves to ride. He is your typical aw-shucks type and just a great guy, very balanced. I could not have picked a better guy to be with; although he travels faster than I do he is patient and waits along the way.
At 1:47pm on my watch I made the very best decision of the day. Even though I was continually hydrating on the move from my camelpak, I was fatigued; the problem was recognizing it. Fortunately, I stopped under a shaded tree, ate one helluva delicious green apple and just gathered my senses. This stop prepared me for the rest of the trip which though short turned out to be the most difficult part of the ride with quite a bit of heavy going.
All in all I was surprised at my endurance and ability to get this done especially given the heat, distance and road conditions. Everyone was suitably complimentary because either their off-road skills are superior to mine or they could understand that this was a huge effort because it was for them too.
We had a great dinner at our comfortable lodgings near the dunes we will see tomorrow and consumed fairly copious amounts of celebratory alcohol.
Day 08, Sun, Jan 22 (Sossusvlei only)
Up at 4 am for a 5 am departure after coffee and a bun with ‘Semi’ as our guide; we were in a converted Toyota Landcruiser; it is a people mover, it was quite chilly and we drove for an hour to get to the sand dunes. This is one of the key reasons people come to Namibia. They are 2M years old and the largest ‘non moving’ dunes in the world with the Sahara being a close second. It doesn’t matter the size, what does matter is the majesty and the unique rust coloured sand. If it was any finer it would be a refined dust.
The dunes are 20 miles inland from the coast at an elevation of 1000 meters - we had come down from a desert elevation of 3000 meters. They inspire complete awe at the majesty of nature. This being the off season (ie. the Namibian summer) it was quiet and almost private. We hiked up a hill top about 100 metres high, rested, hydrated and posed for pictures while Semi captivated us with history and details of what we were seeing.
I have to say that it was one of the more moving scenic experiences of my life. Being used to the spectacular beauty of our westcoast I was nevertheless very, very taken by this natural wonderment of nature. The ecosystem of plant and wildlife is complex and fragile and it was a privilege to be in this serene place.
After coming down from the hill tops we were spoiled with a nice picnic breakfast catered by Semi in the Namibian outback.
The rest of the day was for relaxing and checking on our bikes, tightening loose stuff, topping up tire pressures and the like to prepare for tomorrow.
Tomorrow is another big day of off roading so we really need to be on our toes and up early.
Day 09, Mon, Jan 23rd (Sossus Dune Lodge to Swakopmund, 359 km)
This is another day of true off roading and I get to a neat little gas stop and bakery called Solitare, 89 km along the journey, where we meet as a group. I elect to trailer my bike for the rest of the gravel road bit, another 230km. The rest of the guys are experienced off roaders and I am just getting my feet wet. Good decision, Nick!
The more the day goes on the more I am pleased with my decision about relaxing in the truck, chatting with Andy and taking in the beautiful scenery that photographs cannot capture. This is our last big dirt day of the trip and everyone seems pleased.
We crossed the Tropic of Capricorn today.
We arrived to our lovely lodgings called the Strand Hotel right on the Atlantic Ocean via a place called Walvis Bay in the later afternoon.
Day 10, Tue, Jan 24th (Swakopmund to Otjiwarango, 379 km)
This was our easiest day by far and much deserved after all of the excitement of the previous days; nothing consequential to report.
This worth a paragraph. I have been away 2 weeks and am completely disconnected with the outside world. For a news junky consumer and sports follower I assumed there might be some withdrawal symptoms; no such luck! I have not missed any of it, the world still turns and having a breather is just right.
Gary had to tell me last night that Atlanta and New England are in the Super Bowl. I have no knowledge of the Trump inauguration whatsoever. One of the reasons of course is that we are all very busy, very focused on our motorcycling responsibilities, full metal jacket stuff. Even writing this journal is sometimes a squeeze.
Day 11, Wed, Jan 25th (Otjiwarango to Rundu, 476 km)
Amazing feel good day, felt privileged; it was a straight, well paved highway, and we left around 7:45 am Aaron and I behind Joe who we soon passed as he was felling a bit under the weather. We roared down the highway making good time in 18.5 degree temperatures and no wind. This is a great way to make up time as you are fresh as a daisy. When we got to Grootfontein (note many Africaner names) Aaron and I fueled up at separate stations and I took off alone. It was fun being on my own.
Somewhere down the road in the middle of nowhere in an increasingly green and leafy area I came across a gaggle of humans traipsing down the side of the road so I stopped to say hi and take a pic; 2 adult mums carrying 2 babies plus 4 kids walking along, big, happy smiles. Given where they were, where they had come from (who knows?) I wondered where they might be headed so I noted the odometer reading and kept going.
35km later (a marathon) I come to this village and could only guess that that was their destination. I stop to look around and take some pics of the thatched basic housing with no solar, no power, no TV aerials, no dogs, no cats (another mouth to feed?) etc. pretty basic. Five kids saunter up not looking for anything but just to gawk and say hi; time for a soccer ball handout (I had purchased a box of 25 balls in Cape Town for handouts).
I hand pumped up the ball, gave them each a Canadian lapel pin, took a few pics and was on my way feeling pretty pumped myself.
About a half hour later I come to another village full of kids in blue shirts heading home from school, like a lot of kids. I pull right off the road this time and wait for them to saunter up- ages about 5-10 years, maybe another soccer ball opportunity?
They are all gathering around and I bring out the deflated ball; a cacophony of ‘me, me, me, me reverberates everywhere, deafening, at least they know one word of English. Realizing the the ball is useless with no air, when I pull out the pump there is dead silence. I take my sweet time on the pumping process in order to build suspense and survey the sweet little kids looking at me, the bike and mostly the ball; I get an older girl nearby to take a pic.
Finally the ball gets thrown and there is a huge scrum down. I was pleased that one of the smaller boys emerged from the pile to run on down the road. Hard to describe the feeling of this very small giving process.
The rest of the day was ho hum but energizing before and after.
Our lodgings have been absolutely splendid as is the food albeit too much red meat of every make model and description; would like to try some chicken or fish sometime. My ass is causing a few problems, not for riding either so will have to get some more ruffage in me.
Based on today’s ride, scenery and local villages we passed (got a sore arm returning all the waves) I am feeling more and more like we are in real Africa. Up to now it has been first world (S. Africa), desert and touristy (Namibia).
Day 12, Thur, Jan 26th (Rundu to Kongola, 427 km)
Another brilliant day on the road, so much happening for these western eyes. The road is straight but the people watching viewpoints are amazing. The following are a few thoughts and observations:
-lots of birds (mostly a type of pidgeon) on the road and you do not want to hit one; this means you have to watch your speed and practise your ducking maneuver; they are pretty evasive but one never knows;
- everyone walks everywhere; no bikes, no motorbikes, not even any public transit (to speak of) around here;
- I see people, groups in the middle of nowhere ambling along, no idea where they come from or where they go to;
- lots of women carrying stuff on their heads;
- I need to get way better at stopping and getting a quick photo of what I am seeing;
- the ground looks fertile for organized farming; the farming here is rudimentary subsistence farming for personal consumption; all hand tools, no mechanization in sight;
- no one uses headlights underway, apparently uses too much power(!);
- everyone seems happy and contented, do not think there are many or any smart phones around here;
- we are all travelling mostly on our own. This is way better because it allows for frequent stoppages as and when you choose.
- we have seen hundreds maybe thousands of termite nests, incredibly complex living systems under the ground with huge funnels of hard as concrete chimneys built on top sometimes overwhelming tree systems;
- many elephant, hyena and other animal highway signs; saw baboons (a pack of about 12-15 with the boss over 100 lbs- these guys are smart and a pest, some know how to break in to houses and cars; they can rip apart the fiercest dog with their strong jaws and canine teeth- the big ones as big as a lion’s);
- saw 3 kudus prancing across the road, no elephants;
- lots of goats and cattle wandering across roads;
- we cover our bikes every night (Helge’s rule) and the bike security is excellent.
We travelled through several interesting parks of different usage and name but the main one was the Bwabwata National Park which forms part of what is called the Caprevi Strip or the Zambezi Region. This strip was horse traded by the Germans and the British in the 1800’s. The Brits wanted Zanzibar for strategic reasons. The Germans had German West Africa (Namibia) and wanted this 200 km strip because of its river systems. All these years later we are still in the finger of Namibia.
This corridor comprises the largest concentration of migrating elephants in the world, approx. 60-100,000 of them wander from Angola (where they are poached) south into Botswana and the Chobe National Park where we are going tomorrow.
We are about to go on a private boat tour along one of the main rivers, the Kwando River. The Bwabwata National Park is full of migrating animals, all of the species except Rhino; the guide figures 200 Lions, 60 Leopards, thousands of Elephants and Cape Buffalo’s (the big 5) and 250 Cheetahs and lots of crocs; we stopped and studied many hippo families and got up close and personal to a couple of big bulls (maybe 2000 kg) really cool. Rhinos live to 45-50 years. Their noises speaking to each other is awesome.
This is Namibia’s rainy season mid October to mid April; Apr-Oct is their very busy tourist season so we have the place pretty much to ourselves. With abundant water holes all over at the moment, animals are harder to spot because they are less likely to come down to the water to drink.
| 
