From: Roger Kersch

Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2005 8:06 AM

To: Africa Live!Journal

Subject:

“How fast was I going?” Harrison asked for the thirtieth time on the way to the clinic and again the next day in the Debbie-driven rental Toyota, bouncing down the road in a cloud of dust from the shotgun seat.

“I don’t give a s**t how fast you were going.” Michael retorted disgustingly while clutching the door pull in the back seat. Harrison’s face was all red from the face-plant he’d made from high-siding in the sand when he lost control at precisely 37MPH, which Helge the Great, pre-millennium Beemer traveler of world-wide renown, plundered from Harrison’s GPS.

I had taken photos of his tire tracks and the huge body-sized divot he made in the sand, yet to be seen, alas, as the old-fashioned film will not be developed until I get home. Michael flew home and wrote back about the wonderful friends he’d made and the great time he’d had, as though he was trying to write a do-good letter to summer camp third-graders. I know better. He can’t stand at least half of us, but I won’t say which half and I know this because he told me so. Harrison was fuzzy for a couple of days and without his usually pesty humor. Unfortunately he is returning to normal. I like him better with a concussion. I’ve returned to poking him with a stick from the back seat, payback for all his previous pestering from a week earlier.

“You came all the way here to read a book?” he would jab at me from the second row of the safari Toyota, poking me on the shoulders, not once, but a hundred times. I returned the favor when we were in Kruger National Park and he turned sideways and lay down to snooze right in the middle of seeing lions and two Toyotas laden with Japanese oldsters, the women with white gloves and face masks. I was torn between taking pics of the lions or the Japanese. And poking Old Sleepy.

I yelled to the driver. “How’s the communication going?” “It’s not!” was his instant reply, grinning. I took their pictures and they were unsmilingly perfectly still, and yelled a Japanese salutation to them and they responded in kind, instantly and in perfect unison, followed with toothy smiles. I had more fun with them than the hippos we saw in the gorgeous sunset that night. Then we went back to the lodge. After I poked Harrison. “We came all the way here to Africa and you are sleeping NOW?”

We stepped over the Irish wolf hounds at the front door of the lodge, only to go to the back yard to see Margaret, the frequent nocturnal yard-trimming hippo, munching happily well within flashlight viewing distance. We stayed on our side of the fence. The German lodge owner couple said they were down to one house kitty.

“Why’s that?”

“Pythons.”

No wonder the dogs stay within the lodge grounds!

Roger

From: Pamela Smith

Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2005 8:06 AM

To: Africa Live!Journal

Subject: Pam’s Story - November 4, 2005

It’s hard to believe that we are only four days away from the end of our journey!

It has been quite a “ride”! I have so many emotions inside that are hard to understand. This is a land that appears to have such impoverished people; yet, everyone is smiling and so welcoming. One of the biggest delights of the day is to see the children run out to the road to wave at the motorbikes and our “Bushtracker” mobile. . . such big smiles and bright shiny faces. I have learned so much about plants, birds, trees, geology, clouds, rock formations, and beetles, etc. thanks to Marlene and Marius. It has inspired me to

study more about our earth and the things that inhabit it when we arrive back home.

The very best part has been watching Steve succeed in his goal! He’s a fabulous rider (even if he does carry too much “stuff” with him - according to all of the other bikers)! The terrains and temperatures have been challenging and unlike ones he’s been used to.

For not having had a great deal of off-road riding experience he’s been riding like a pro! I am so proud of you, Sweetheart!

We’ve just come through the dunes the past three days. I never would have believed that the temperature would have DROPPED by 40 degrees when we arrived there unless I experienced it! However, the temperature quickly increased as we moved inland away from the coast. It rose by approximately 50 degrees. Today we are in Fish River Canyon surrounded by towering mountains on all sides and enjoying the natural hot springs. For the most part the elephants, zebras, and lions have ended. We occasionally see an ostrich and a jackal. There are a few farms along the way. This time of year, especially, water is scarce on the land. There is hardly any water in the Fish River Canyon. The rainy season begins the end of this month and the people can’t wait for rain!

I will close for today and hope to write one last time in Cape Town. Curtis and Michael, we have missed you and hope that your bikes will be able to be repaired to as good as new when they arrive home. It was a pleasure getting to know you, both.

To those of you considering a “journey” – DO IT! Step outside of your box! And if you come, I hope that you are fortunate enough to have such wonderful traveling companions

on your adventure as we were!

Tot weer siens. . . . . . .Pamela Smith

PS to MJ: Grandma PJ and Grandpa are almost on their way home. We have the most wonderful pictures and stories to share with you! See you very soon. We love you!

To Ryan and Brooke and Mike: Thank you for your encouragement and support that “nudged” us to make this trip! We’re lucky parents!