Return to GlobeRiders Home Page

Live!Journal Chapters Menu

Week Seven Chapter: 14 June ~ 20 June - China

National Flag of Turkmenistan

"China is a big country, inhabited by many Chinese." - Charles de Gaulle quotes (French general, writer and statesman, 1890-1970)

"Life is either a daring adventure or nothing. Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature." - Helen Keller (American author and educator 1880-1968)

Starting location for this week: Dunhuang, China
Ending location for this week: Pingliang, China
Planned mileage for this week: 947 miles (1,515 kilometers)

Nî hâo (The simplest form of "Hello" in official Mandarin Chinese)

There are those who claim Marco Polo was an extraordinary explorer and historian. Others claim he was merely a writer with an extraordinarily gifted imagination. Regardless, even though a Han Dynasty bureaucrat was really responsible for opening the Silk Road, the person most Westerners associate with it (other than our riders, of course!) is the Venetian trader, Marco., even if he really didn't bring pasta back to Italy

It was against raiders, not traders, that the Chinese Emperors commanded the construction of the Great Wall of China (and no, apparently you cannot see it from space with the unaided eye). There are many who have had their pictures taken at the Beijing end of the Wall, but few I know have ever visited the far western end, where the First Beacon Tower still stands as foundation for this earliest of DEW (Distant Early Warning) lines. On Day 44, our riders will reach the First Beacon Tower, and from there, this modern hoard of mounted road warriors will mark the final stages of their long journey to the Eastern terminus of the Silk Road, Xian.

Welcome to Week Seven of the Silk Road!

Mike, Your Webmeister

* * * * * * * * * *

Unless otherwise noted, all photographic images on this page were taken by Helge Pedersen

The many forms of "Hello" in over 800 languages and other useful words and phrases are courtesy of Jennifer's Language Page.

To find out what time it is there (or anywhere!), visit The World Clock.

To see where they are now, visit the Navigation Technology Chapter.

For more information about China in this week's leg of the Silk Road, please visit the resources listed below:

- The World Factbook, maintained by the Central Intelligence Agency of the United States:

- The Consular Information Sheets, provided by the Department of State of the United States:

- The web-based, free-content encyclopedia entries at Wikipedia, maintained by "GlobeWriters" everywhere":

13 JUN 2005 - Dunhuang China, China

From: Bud Robinson

Sent: Monday, June 13, 2005 4:46 PM

To: Silk Road Live!Journal

Subject: SMS Text Message

1/2 At breakfast on roof of nice hotel in Dunhang with a magnificant view of the sand dunes! We go to them later to ride camels on them, af

From: Bud Robinson

Sent: Monday, June 13, 2005 4:46 PM

To: Silk Road Live!Journal

Subject: SMS Text Message

2/2 ter seeing the Budda Grottoes.

14 JUN 2005 - Dunhuang, China

From: John LaChapelle

Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2005 3:05 AM

To: Silk Road Live!Journal

Subject: update

Don Huang, China

You may not believe it but The Clash are perhaps the best band for crossing the Gobi Desert. Truly amazing, a few minor wind and sand storms although the wind was not as bad as yesterday – bikes were leaned over pretty hard, felt as if the wind wanted to just shove the tires out from under you.

Okay, so I thought I would take you through my daily routine now that I have it down with only a week to go…lovely.

Wake up and moan, want more sleep. This riding makes ya' tired.

Pack up laptop and battery chargers etc that were plugged in the night previous.

Grab from the shower the underwear, socks and shirt I washed the day previously – all synthetic.

Shower, brush teeth, pack up dop kit.

Pack clothes bag (pannier insert bag).


Grab helmet, computer/camera bag and clothes bag and step out of room door.

Drop bags and re-enter room for my “idiot check”. Making sure I haven’t left anything behind.

Leave key with front desk and head to bike.

Pack bike.

Head to breakfast for a quick cup of Java and some hard boiled eggs and of course some cucumbers and tomatoes – the world seems to revolve on cucumbers and tomatoes.

Return to bike put on earphones, clean face shield and fire up the GPS and the bike.


And Ride some more.

Get to hotel.

Unpack bike and put on cover.

Grab key to room and realize my room is always at the end of the hallway. Helge?

Take off riding gear and hang in closet.

Toss all the clothes I’m wearing into the sink with hot water and some Tide (thanks Laura).

Take shower, wring out laundry and hang to dry.

Find the beer crew in the lobby and begin search for cold beer.


More beer.


Repeat process.

And everything in between? Utterly indescribable.


Monday, June 13, 2005

Rick Wetzel (aka "Noodles") cooling off in a canal.

[Perry Murray (center) and John LaChapelle (left) enjoying noodles.]

15 JUN 2005 - Jiayuguan, China

From: John LaChapelle

Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2005 3:06 AM

To: Silk Road Live!Journal

Subject: update

Don Huang, China

Nicknames so far:

Rick Wetzel – “Noodles” and oftentimes “Rickster”

Jay Yanick – “Long Arms”

Jim Harding – “Black Bart”

Perry Murray – “Perry Dakar”

Laura Seaver – “Sweets”

Me – “Hollywood” (big surprise there)

David Allen – “Doc”

Hans Muellers – “Hansamatic”

Mike Benziger – “Beez”

Robert Dean French – “The Commander” (unfortunately The Commander had to return to the states on business)

Geri French – “The Shopper”

Shirlee Baughman – “Mom”

Judy Robinson – “Wonder Woman”

Emily McGay – “Chuckles”

Which leaves:

Frank Baughman

Sterling Noren

David Ow

Chris Poland

Ann and Jeff Roeberg (however I do collectively call them “The Roebergs”)

Bud Robinson

Jim Russell

Roger Waterman

Helge Pedersen

Don’t worry, we’ll get to them.


Tuesday, June 14, 2005

15 JUN 2005 - Jiayuguan, China

From: Roger Waterman

Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2005 1:16 AM

To: Silk Road Live!journal

Subject: The Big Bannana!

I think you’ve seen this before, but others may find it disgusting!

- Roger

(I’m not sure what fish this is, but the packing looked like the maggots I’ve seen in Bangkok.

16 JUN 2005 - Jiayuguan, China

From: David Ow

Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2005 3:08 AM

To: Silk Road Live!Journal

Subject: Greetings from Jiayuguan, China

Greetings Family and Friends,

Had sightseeing this morning at the western end of the Great Wall. We are about 3,000 miles from the eastern end. First Beacon Tower was impressive and ornate. Wall was made with mud and clay. No large rocks in this area.

My sunglasses broke and I was able to have them repaired by a technician that soldered the earpiece on. Cost 1 Yuan (12 cents). I decided to buy a back-up pair for 230 Yuan so he waived the repair fee even though I insisted he take it.

Thanks for the birthday wishes. I spent my 60th birthday in Dunhuang on the 14th. I felt sad that I could not be with my family and friends to celebrate this event. To lift me out of my depression here are the events of the day:

- My fellow GlobeRiders gave me morning happy birthday greetings.

- Sightseeing to Mogao Grottos where there are 492 caves with Buddhist statues and art. Two caves had 100 foot tall Buddhas and one I was able to walk around 3 times.

- Walked thru the city bazaar with hundreds of vendors.

At dinner I was given presents - Playboy belt, carved roosters, cane, dried 2 foot snake, CD of Beijing, and bronze statue of a male and female and an illustrated book made from bones (both XXX rated).

- Also I enjoyed a cake that had long life and cranes on it.

- After dinner we went to the Mingsha sand dunes and rode camels to Crescent Lake.

- Back at the hotel we watched a show of singing and folk dancing.

With all this activity and being with my happy and entertaining GlobeRiders I must admit that it was a birthday that I will never forget. I am grateful for their kindness and honored to have them as friends.

Motorcycling On


16 JUN 2005 - Seattle, Washington USA

All this talk about "noodles" has made me wish for some (of the served-in-a-bowl-or-on-plate variety at any rate!).

Last week, Helge sent a series of photographs of hand-made noodle making in China. I didn't know what to do with them.  but since "noodles" have somehow made it in to this week's chapter, it seems logical to show them here.

Some of you more experienced foodies or travelers may have seen this almost magical ritual of manual dexterity before, but for those that haven't, you can't claim you've had fresh "pasta" unless you've had it this way. . . !

16 JUN 2005 - Jiayuguan, China

From: Helge Pedersen

Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2005 10:07 AM

To: Silk Road Live!Journal

Subject: Broken frame


I worked on my bike today and found a break, see attached pictures.

Helge P.

17 JUN 2005 - Wuwei, China

From: Helge Pedersen

Sent: Saturday, June 18, 2005 5:30 AM

To: Silk Road Live!journal

Subject: Story from Roger and Mike

I received the attached from Roger. He and Mike have tried to send the material for some time and finally took me up on the offer to send the story. It is out of date and they apologize for that.


Helge P.

From: Roger Waterman

Sent: Friday, June 17, 2005 12:09 AM

To: Silk Road Live!Journal

Subject: A Santa arrives in Almaty

Family and Friends,

[From Roger]

Mike Benziger aka “The Beez” arrived in Almaty bearing gifts, including a new shock for David Ow and many recording tapes for Sterling’s ongoing archival record. Some of the transport was not quite as important to the continuation of the trip, but Helge would argue that the sardines, crabmeat and chocolate are essential to his ongoing patience and good disposition. John, of course, ran out of Don Julio’s in Tiblisi, but Beez’s replacement was gone before Zharkent. My “Crown” lasted a bit longer because I left the remains of our sorrow bottle at the bar after sending Em to the airport. Mike’s other luggage included M&M’s and pepper for Frank, spokes for Chris, but Jim’s stuff never made it to Colorado.

Speaking of shocks—the experts (Helge and Jay) managed to replace David’s in time for the next day’s ride. That rear shock bolt that had snapped on the way to Baku was broken again by the time Mike and I arrived in Zharkent. Jim “Black Bart” Harding skipped lunch and found a hardened bolt to replace Jeff’s “loaner,” which was holding with only two threads and a dose of Loc Tite. Back on the road --- this time with a spare. Replaced a faulty taillight bulb with the help of Jim Russell’s bulb, Frank’s duct tape, and Rick’s voltmeter — did I bring anything on this trip that I can find?

[From Mike]

I’ve been here a week and have certainly adjusted to the changed time. The group is varied, interesting and very congenial and I have rapidly fit in. Riding the motorcycle has been somewhat challenging as the roads are at times extremely rough and the choice is to take the picture or involuntarily dismount the cycle. Fortunately, one hand has kept me on. We attached handhold straps yesterday to help me stay on and still get a few in motion shots.

Food has been good, as is evidenced in the last shot, and overall the hotels are nice.

Turpan is extremely hot and dry; and the air-conditioning in running intermittently---makes for some very hot sleeping. Speaking of sleeping, last night, unbeknownst to me, Roger had scheduled a massage at 10:00 p.m. After seeing the masseuses, Roger had questioned their technical ability and cancelled the appointment (something about a tight red dress and high heals bothered him), but had already given a room number. I was sleeping in a 90 degree room and a knock on the door awoke me. I didn’t think Roger had a key, so I opened the door in my underwear only to find one of Roger’s “jilted” masseuses. I refused the service but had to endure 20 minutes of door knocking and 20 more minutes of phone calls. Obviously, all massages are not the same.

One more day in Turpan—then on to Hami—400+ kilometers across the great Gobi Desert. Fortunaely, we’re not on camels and the new freeway will make for a tolerable ride.

Mike and Roger

17 JUN 2005 - Wuwei, China

From: Hans Muellers

Sent: Friday, June 17, 2005 5:58 AM

To: Silk Road Live!Journal

Subject: Wuwei


We have only 3 riding days left and mentally we are preparing ourselves for the return to reality.

Today we got stuck in a traffic jam which caused us to detour thru some fine sand. Not a happy occasion for our heavy bikes but all made it thru OK. The roads have been good and bad at the same time. It's not really the roads that are a problem but the traffic on them. The fine dust gets stirred up by the trucks in front of you and the traffic in the oncoming lane. Lane? What lane? It's a free-for-all in the construction zone. Riding without visibility is tough, especially on gravel and sand roads. All went well however, some get-offs but nothing serious.

We are in the part of China where very few tourists go. When we ride thru the town we are a sensation, everybody stops and looks. When we stop for the night at our hotel we have to "hide" the bikes because everybody would want to see and touch everything on the bike. No, they would not steal anything, but they sure would like to just sit on it and pretend to ride our bikes in their dreams. We are, like I said, a sensation here. Better to hide the bikes in the backyard of hotels under cover and under guard. We only lost a water bladder on the whole trip. Oh, and some knick-knacks like a protective eye, etc. Nothing serious.

We only met very friendly people and very helpful people throughout our trip. Everybody goes out of their way to help us. I was looking for a car wash to clean my bike and a guy walked me to one. They smile and want to talk to us but unfortunately none of us speak their languages. Yes, we have guides but the little, daily chatter is what I find interesting and the guides don't interpret for each of us on a daily basis. It's up to us to learn their language. Today I asked for this internet cafe and it took 6 people to get me here and then I had to wait but everybody was friendly and offered tea, etc.

It’s been a great trip so far but now we are preparing ourselves to see Xian and then for the trip home.

I will write a summary when we get to Xian.

All the best


19 JUN 2005 - Lanzhou, China

From: Roger Waterman

Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2005 9:07 PM

To: Silk Road Live!Journal

Subject: Kids and broken toys

Friends and All,

First, our apologies for not nearly keeping up our share in providing material to the journal. We are technology challenged anyway, but the new computer and I are not friendly enough to do this easily. We will make up for part of it by increasing the commitment and using Helge to transmit when we find that the “sent” message does not make it to Mike. Others have been providing a more steady flow, though even Helge has been challenged in transmitting on occasion.

Chris is shown here in the presences of some of the highlights of this entire trip — kids…lots of them. Most all are smiling and happy; many displaying the same curiosity and playfulness of children most anywhere. The cameras are automatic introductions. The excitement of immediately seeing themselves on the small screen and the squeals of joy immediately attracts others and adds to the competition to get in front of the camera. I’m sure our group collectively has taken thousands, literally, of shots of young people. The children in China appear to be happy and healthy, with both parents participating in the child rearing responsibilities. Perhaps this is partly a result of the “one child per couple” policy over the last generation or two. The kids have been a great part of the enjoyment of this trip.

Benziger here. I would like to propose a toast to a post or rather, the removal thereof. For ten years I have been riding behind Waterman on the original seat that came with his bike. Unfortunately there is a one inch steel post in the back for a back rest we have never used. The passenger part of the seat is pretty small so…the bottom line is that I have been riding on that steel post for over 6,000 miles. Some bottom line! Well, the frame broke that holds the panniers on, so we went to a welding shop and had that repaired and talked the guys (who don’t speak English) into sawing off an inch of that post. Notice the picture with the sparks all over the workers! They found some foam padding, proceeded to “super glue” the seat cover back together and “voila!” the dawning of a new age. It ain’t perfect but it is a big improvement. Of course we only have 3 riding days left. And to amplify an earlier theme, the son of one of the welders accepted a postcard from Roger and in front of his proud and admiring parents proceeded to autograph a second card for us (see photo).

Mike, if can enlarge the last picture, you can see the young man’s signature.

Roger and Beez

19 JUN 2005 - Lanzhou, China

From: Sterling Noren
Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2005 5:47 AM
To: Silk Road Live!Journal
Subject: Silk Road journal update



We are approaching the end of the tour and it is becoming more and more evident every day now. The cities are becoming larger and larger, traffic is worse and I saw the first young person with facial piercings that I have seen since leaving Seattle . We are truly getting closer to the reality we left almost two months ago.


A topic that I have been discussing with "Genghis John" (LaChapelle) is the ying/yang relationship on this tour. It is something that appears in so many different ways on a journey like this. There is motion and rest, riding and relaxation. There is danger and chaos along with periods of great calm and repose. Tour days and Riding days. There is the longing to experience new places and see new things and the longing to return home where love and families are waiting.


When it comes to the ying/yang of riding in the Middle Kingdom there are long stretches of smooth Chinese asphalt followed by body pounding back roads through small villages and construction zones. One is definitely different than the other. In China it seems there are really only three riding scenarios outside of the cities: the expressways with their almost perfect pavement (actually, quite "silk" like), the national highways which are two-lane highways that go through the villages and the construction zones. We have ridden all three.


Yesterday started out on the expressway which lead us along the Hexi corridor up and into some really scenic stretches of road that passed through green valleys with dusty brown rock canyons off to the right. Then we were sent careening into the chaos of a rural back road under repair - dodging holes, passing giant exhaust spewing trucks, covered in dust so thick I had to scrape it off my teeth with my fingernails. I was on the back of John's bike, filming the whole mad adventure and it was one of the finest days of the tour yet.


Today I took a ride down the Yellow river on a raft made out of animal skins of all things. They somehow remove all of the hair, tie up the arm and leg holes, inflate them and put them all together with sticks and twine and they actually float. These little rafts have been made for centuries here and now we tourists can hire out a skipper to pilot us downstream for a couple of klicks. He even sings along the way. It was another one of the many quick, crazy micro-experiences of this trip. It seems like just when you think you have done and seen it all you find yourself floating down a river in China on a raft made up of inflated animal parts. And then it’s over and you're on to the next crazy thing to do and see.


We have thrown paper airplanes out of our 22nd story hotel window that was so big four people could have jumped through it at the same time. (We actually had to unscrew the safety bar that prevented opening it). We had an animal neck for dinner tonight. I drove a really f****d up three-wheeled cab home the other night because the driver let me. There were vast fields of marijuana being cultivated next to the road we were riding on. I saw a young girl throw up outside of a bus window because the road we were on was so rough. We flew down sand dunes on sleds made of bamboo after riding camels into the sacred lake. We stood in caves and gazed up at Buddhas bigger than some of the hotels we have slept in. And this has only been during the last four days.


The reality of giving up this kind of day to day lifestyle is something that everyone on the tour has to deal with personally. Part of the reason a trip like this is so special is that it is an oasis in life itself, an island of intense, rich experiences that come faster than the lines in the pavement, woven together into a complexity greater than a silk carpet itself. It is counterpoint to our ordinary lives, our ordinary realities but one can’t exist without the other. The ying and the yang again, in the land that invented it.


In short, we have almost made it. This whole crazy adventure has come to its final pages. What the outcome will be isn’t totally determined yet but the chapters are written. I know that it has been an astounding project to be a part of and I’m really thankful for everyone in the group and their openness in allowing me to be a part of the team with my ever present television camera. I’m also thankful to Mariana who has put up with me being gone for so long. I truly believe that there is a story in all of this that makes the work worthwhile.


So I bid the farewell from the steamy Yellow River capital of Gansu Province .


Tomorrow we ride.

19 JUN 2005 - Lanzhou, China

From: Laura Seaver

Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2005 6:24 AM

To: Silk Road Live!Journal

Subject: Forbid to Chuck Jetsam

Stories from China

Spending time in China is a bit overwhelming, so I'm going to try to bite off little bits and offer you some stories. First, A Day in Dun Huang, a story in three parts. Then, A Brief Tale of a Day on the Road.

Dun Huang, morning sightseeing

We visited the Mogao Buddha Caves, which are quite amazing. A few days earlier in Turfan, we visited some Buddha caves, but these near Dun Huang were far more impressive. These are caves carved out of a cliffside, hundreds of them, I think, although only a few are open to visitors on any given day. The colors in the murals painted on the wall are still bright and vivid. The sculptures were kind of wild -- many of Buddha and bodhisattvas and disciples, but also statues of fantastical creatures and guards and angels. One cave turned out to be a three story high cave containing a statue of Buddha 37 meters tall (I think I remember that figure correctly.) Another had a reclining Buddha 12 meters long, surrounded by life-size statues of disciples, each with a different face, expression, clothing, etc. These were amazing!!! Of course, the question would arise, "Has this cave been restored at all?" "Oh, yes," would come the answer, "about 600 years ago it was restored."


Dun Huang, afternoon farm tour

After the caves, we all went into town. Perry and I ducked into a small restaurant for a bite to eat, and then caught a cab back to the hotel. The hotel was a bit outside of town, near the sand dunes, and on the way, Perry asked me if I was interested in touring some farms. Sure! When we got to the hotel, we had the driver come in with us so the front desk clerk could translate our request. So, we headed off with our new driver/tour guide. Dun Huang is an oasis town, with lots of agriculture, and we had seen many green houses, so that was our first stop. The green houses are built with a brick wall, then poles curving from the top of that wall down to the ground, forming the structure for the roof and other wall. Then plastic can be put over the poles and, for cold weather, straw blankets over that. This time of year, most of the greenhouses were uncovered. We stopped by one where we could see some people working. The husband and wife team was picking long beans. They had four greenhouses and the small fields in between. A small house was built onto the end of one of the green houses. They use a drip irrigation system. The only part of the conversation that was unclear was the part about the market value of the bean crop. I don't think I quite understood that. Not bad, though, for a conversation among people who have no more words in common than "Hello" and "Thank you".

After that, the driver took us to his house and gave us scads of apricots off of his trees. We weaseled an invitation into the house and met his mother, interrupting her work as well. She was very sweet to us. Unfortunately, we had come unprepared without even our photos from home, but we happily looked at her few photos and took some of our own.

On our way back to the hotel, Perry wanted a few more photos of some fields so asked the driver to stop. He backed up the car a bit, and insisted we come into the field with him. No, no, we've seen enough. But he insisted. He wanted to show us the well there and how it was connected to the irrigation system. By now, he had gotten into the spirit of our adventure. Back at the hotel, I showed him the bikes and explained our trip, while Perry went up to get some photos from his room. Perry gave the driver a photo of his family, asking for him to take it to his mother. We all said our good byes and that was that. Until later, when Bud and Judy told the story of how they hopped in a cab with a driver who spoke not a word of English but somehow had a picture of Perry's family!

Dun Huang, evening tourist activities

After an early dinner, we headed over to the sand dunes for a thoroughly touristy, thoroughly fun evening. These dunes are impressive -- I don't know the height, but they're big. They fit all the fantasy of towering desert dunes. First stop, the camels. We each climbed about our own camels, and headed off into the sand in camel trains of four. Lots of laughing and photos. The ride was only about 15 minutes, to Crescent Lake. I still don't know what a lake is doing in the middle of sand dunes, but there it was.

A bunch of us climbed up the face of the nearest dune. Thankfully, there were "steps" most of the way. This was the steep side of the dune, and I never would have made it without the ladders there to provide some traction. The last section without that help was difficult. And on the other side of that dune? More dunes, of course! After some photo taking, it was time to head down. Always easier than going up, but here there was even more fun. About two-thirds of the way down, we got to the top sledding station. One at a time, we each got our bamboo sled and whizzed to the bottom. It was fun!! I got flying pretty fast, and by the bottom, I had my eyes closed as sand was flying everywhere! Lots of cameras clicking away by those at the bottom. Then we took the camels back to the entrance. I bought my "I rode a camel at Dun Huang" photo, and headed back to the hotel for a musical show. Another busy day!!!

Riding in China

Every day on the bikes is an adventure, here as much or more than any where else. We've zoomed along new expressways. This is not the most interesting riding, but it is a good way to make miles. Just over the past few days, we've started to see signs with English on them, which do provide some amusement value. I know English is a very difficult language, but I can't help but laugh at some of the signage. Do not drive tiredly. Overspeeding prohibipion. Use passing long (sic) only while overtaking. And my personal favorite, Forbid to chuck jetsam.

Yesterday, we were on the expressway, with not much interesting going on, until we started paralleling an old section of the Great Wall. This is unrestored, with lots of gaps in it, but I could still see watch towers and lots of wall. We stopped where the road crossed the wall and took lots of photos. A ways further on, the expressway ended but the road was quite good as we headed up and over an over 9,000 foot pass. Interesting scenery. Then more expressway, but we got detoured off the expressway because of construction and got on the national road. However, they were doing construction on that section of the national road, too, so riding got interesting. This is why we have the bikes we do. Dusty, rutted road, often one lane, with trucks and busses heading in both directions. It's quite a fun challenge, ducking in and out and around all the obstacles, both moving and still. The four-wheeled traffic couldn't move very fast, so that made it fun, not stressful, for me. So much for having washed my bike and riding gear! Everything was covered in the fine dust.

Everything except for our smiles.

The next riding adventure of the day was heading into the city. Lanzhou stretches along the banks of the Yellow River. We crossed the river, headed a ways, crossed back and worked our way through downtown to our hotel. This is usually the most difficult riding of the day. Traffic is crazy, and we are trying to stay together and follow the guides' car. Quite a feat to get 16 motorcycles through a city together. I've adopted some kind of aggressive defensive driving. I have to pay attention to every direction, but I also can't give an inch or I won't get anywhere. It's stressful and focused and really kind of fun, although I am a bit feisty when we finally arrive at the hotel.

Other thoughts

We have just two riding days left. It's weird to think of the trip drawing to an end. I'm both sad and glad to think that I will be home in just ten days. I remember thinking on the World Tour five years ago that it was good we were in China near the beginning because it is overwhelming and it would be hard to deal with it when exhausted from a long journey. Well, that is where I am now. This morning, I was just overwhelmed. How many more days of this?! But I took a break this afternoon and napped, napped, napped. Now life looks much better. There's still so much to see. I'd better get back out there.

Thanks for reading, and thanks for all the notes.

It's great to hear from you!


Helge Pedersen Images from the Silk Road

Live!Journal Chapters Menu

Copyright © 2009 GlobeRiders, LLC ®.  All rights reserved.